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Plates #1

Time to finish the prototype adaptor plate that will sit between the block and the gearbox.

This is the rough plywood MK1 'outline' adaptor complete with holes to bolt block & box, but needs a bit of work so the crank will fit in !


It also neets the 'front' end shaping to fit under the timing cover. A bit of 'extra' sump will be needed at this end to fill the gap where the block overhangs the box.


As the crank is longer than the box, a hacksaw was employed to stop the big ends from hitting the end of the box. The faint red line shows the bit that was removed. Please ignore the aluminium filings in the box :-)



The casing on the right for the speedo drive needs to be butchered a little bit too.


Faint red line shows where the short bit of sump needs to go. Viku welded a lump of aluminium on and machined it for the crank to fit. As I don't have access to such luxury a bit of the V8 sump will be chopped to fit the gap.


The sump flange of the block was painted with used oil then the adaptor was bolted on to 'print' the block shape on. While it was bolted on I spreyed some paint in too, incase the print wasn't any good. I need not have worried!


The box side needed a bit of a print to find where the box finished.


Having worked out what needed to be removed from the centre part of the adaptor it was time for the jigsaw. To stop the plywood from splintering I was going to screw it to some MDF, then I had a cunning plan.... Stick another couple of sheets of ply in at the same time to make some rough copies, oh and a spare bit of B&Q BBQ, sorry I mean 1mm sheet steel ;-)


The top quality B&Q jigsaw (£19) was finding it a bit hard going, but didn't actually catch fire, which was nice.


Ho, hum, it only took 30 mins to do the outline.


The inside hole was a bit more fiddly to cut, hence a bit wiggly, but it should give a reasonable template for designing the final plate.


After only 2 hours I have a bit of wood with a hole in it (well several actually), it does however fit the block, the box and the crank still turns, so it must be worth it


A couple of pics to show the Weber DCNF fully bolted to the modified manifold.


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This page last modified 09/11/2006.